I can shift it outta park but it wont start no clicking or anything its as if the battery is dead but it isnt. The truck has a western plow on it and it has plenty of power to lift plow and lights work but no turnover or cranking.. It has been working just fine with no problems at all the this all the sudden.. Any help please
If it doesn’t even click, you’re not getting any power to the starter relay. Try starting it in Neutral. If that works, your neutral safety switch is out. If it starts in gear, the switch needs adjusting at minimum. If it doesn’t, you’d pretty much have to get a circuit tester and start backtracking through the wiring to be sure what it is.Could be the ignition switch, because accessories are cut off while in cranking mode.
December 14th, 2009 at 1:41 am
check for damage to the positive cable at the starter. if it looks good, pull the starter and have it tested. if the starter tests good, you have a problem in the ignition switch.
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December 14th, 2009 at 1:54 am
My money is on the starter. Go get it tested (many auto part stores do this for free) and replace as required.
**Edit: Pitbullady – It can’t be the alternator, distributor or spark plugs since it isn’t even turning over. As long as the battery is charged and nothing has happened to the battery cable or ignition switch, it’s almost certainly the starter.
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December 14th, 2009 at 2:34 am
This could signal an alternator, fuel or spark delivery problem. If the truck hasn’t had a tune-up done in a while, replacing spark plugs, spark plug wires, and fuel injectors is a good start. Check your distributor, and especially the rotor button, for signs that parts need replacement.
Just to give it a shot, try diagnosing the alternator. You can try to manually turn the alternator, and if there is extreme resistance or it won’t move at all, that’s a sign that it’s shot. An even better way to check if it’s the alternator is just take it off and have a free test run on it at an AutoZone or Advanced/Discount Auto Parts.
If none of the above works, then you can either systematically go through the fuel system from tank to engine, check for loose/worn/melted wires in the electrical system, and just run systematic diagnostics… or you can just take it to a shop. Most people would rather not go through the hassel of diagnosing problems themselves, so I always throw in to have a certified mechanic check it out in a good shop. Most will do free or cheaper estimates, if you’ll get it fixed at their shop.
Btw, if you keep trying to turn it over and turning on/off lights and plow and such, you WILL kill the battery since the alternator is not charging it since the engine is not running.
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December 14th, 2009 at 3:05 am
you need to get 1.1 gigahertz to you flux capacitor roflmao
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December 14th, 2009 at 3:53 am
If it doesn’t even click, you’re not getting any power to the starter relay. Try starting it in Neutral. If that works, your neutral safety switch is out. If it starts in gear, the switch needs adjusting at minimum. If it doesn’t, you’d pretty much have to get a circuit tester and start backtracking through the wiring to be sure what it is.Could be the ignition switch, because accessories are cut off while in cranking mode.
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ASE Certified Tech
December 14th, 2009 at 4:18 am
The first thing I would do is have the battery tested and check for loose wiring from the battery to the starter. Also check for corrosion on cables and clamps. If the battery is good (most parts stores will test it for free), make certain you have a good solid connection (those OEM clamps are crap) and check the starter solenoid.
On Fords, the positive cable runs from the battery directly to the starter solenoid under hood (GMs put the solenoid on the starter itself). to check the solenoid, put the trans in Neutral, park brake on, and turn the key to the run position. Using a screwdriver with a plastic handle, jump across the two largest posts on the solenoid. The truck should crank if the battery is good and the starter isn’t shot.
You may also have a burned out fusible link. Fusible link is wiring that is designed to burn out much like a fuse. It will have a large squarish piece of rubber around it with ‘fusible link’ on it. Use a voltmeter to check if the fusible link is burned out.
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